Dom Taylor’s Caribbean Renaissance in Dalston

The last time I caught up with chef Dom Taylor, he was riding high. The first chef to introduce a Caribbean restaurant to a five-star London hotel in 2003. He was the talk of London’s food scene.

Black Wall Street Media’s editor-in-chief, Dr Diahanne Rhiney, and I dined at the Good Front Room a few months after it opened and enjoyed the experience hugely. I was, therefore, surprised when just a few months later, news reached that the nine-month tenure at the Langham was over.

Dom is a talented chef and the restaurant was busy so why did it close? I’ve heard the rumours but without firsthand information, I can’t substantiate them. Surprise and disappointment did not even begin to cover my emotions.

Two years later, Dom has brought the Good Front Room back. We talk about representing , here is Dom doing just that, again. This time, he’s eschewed the formal Central London setting for uber cool Dalston.

I arrived at Dalston Junction by Windrush Line, the irony wasn’t lost on me, and took a deep breath. This part of East London always smells so good, BBQ aromas waft down to tube level every time. The Good Front Room has found its permanent home.

Dom’s mission statement is unchanged, to elevate and modernise Caribbean food, sprinkling it with some fine dining magic. The Good Front Room certainly looks the part. The interior and decor instantly took me back to the 70s.

The portions buck against the cuisine’s preponderance for high and heavy plates. Here, it’s small plates, carefully planned and perfectly executed. This chef knows he’s good, and is quick to point out that no one is doing what he is, in London.

Jerk Chicken arrived to table almost in disguise. Delicately spiced, carefully charred, and layered with other select ingredients, like corn ribs, and seared on hot coals. Its minimalist presentation and crown of paper thin plantain crisps didn’t make it instantly recognisable. Sweet and juicy, delicately spiced meat, was on the gentler side for a chilli lover but that’s no bad thing.

Fried seabream served with escovitch onions and peppers took me right back to Jamaica. Modern island cuisine this maybe but chef hasn’t forgotten traditional sides that the masses love. Rice & Peas, Plantain, Coleslaw and Baked Mac Three Cheese made an appearance. A richer mac ‘n’ cheese you’d be hard pressed to find so I was grateful for a smaller portion.

I loved Ackee & Saltfish Cake, a croquette filled with a combination of the aforementioned. Such a 2026 way of delivering Jamaica’s national dish.

Three courses will set you back £85 but remember this is fine dining. The weekend brunch menu differs to the a la carte, vastly. No dreary brunch menus here. It’s easy to see the European influence of dishes including Lobster French Toast is served with a coconut rum bisque, green papaya and scallion oil. Loyal to Caribbean ingredients, sausages served with beans on toast are made using goat meat.

Opening times:

Thurs and Friday – 5pm-11pm.

Saturday – 12 noon – 2pm and 5pm-11pm.

Sunday – 12 noon – 7pm, with latest booking at 5pm.

Book via the website: www.thegoodfrontroom.co.uk

The Good Front Room – Thomas Tower, Dalston Square, London, E8 3GU. ​Nearest Station: Dalston Junction Overground via Windrush Line.